Xian
The capital of Shaanxi province, in northern central China, Xi'an was the country's ancient capital, and has undergone a renaissance as a tourist centre, both for its own Tang, Han, and Ming dynasty monuments, and as a base for visiting the fabulous army of terracotta warriors to the city's east. During the Tang period, when the city was called Chang'an, it had two million inhabitants, and was the eastern terminus of the Silk Route.
Banpo Neolithic Village (Banpo Bowuguan)
The 6,500-year-old village is of interest to scholars of the Yangshao Culture, and also to tourists, because the layout of the museum allows visitors to walk among the remains of the villagers' huts. Several hundred graves have been uncovered. Weapons, tools, farming and fishing implements are on display. Banpo Rd. In the eastern suburbs, across the Chanhe River. Tel: (029) 353 2482. Open: daily 9am-5pm. Admission charge.
Bell Tower (Zhong Lou)
The tower where the bell was rung to signify the opening of the city gates, and which now offers a fine view of the busy city, dates from 1384. It incorporates an antique store with carved beams and a beautifully painted ceiling. Nanda St. In the centre of the old city. Tel: (029) 721 4665. Open: daily 8.30am-5pm. Admission charge.
Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Da Yan Ta)
This pagoda gained its curious name from the legend that a nearby temple was built to honour a sacred goose. The pagoda dates from ad 652, but was recently rebuilt. Its seven storeys and 284 interior steps lead to a fine viewpoint. Yanta Rd. Southeastern suburbs, near the History Museum. Tel: (029) 525 3802. Open: daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission charge.
City Wall
The 14km-long city wall dates from the 14th century and is built on earlier Tang foundations. It has recently been restored and is an impressive 12-m high monument to the city's former importance. There are four great fortified gates: the North Gate (Beimen), South Gate (Nanmen), East Gate (Dongmen), and West Gate (Ximen). The walls are ringed by Huancheng Rd (itself divided into quarters called Bei, Nan, Dong, and Xi).
Drum Tower (Gulou)
Drums were beaten from here at night as the city gates were about to close. Built in 1380, the tower is 34m high. Beiyuanmen. Between the Great Mosque and the Bell Tower. Tel: (029) 727 4580. Open: daily 8.30am-5pm. Admission charge.
Great Mosque (Da Qingzhen Si)
Set amidst the rambling and jumbled alleys of Xi'an's old Muslim quarter, the mosque, founded in ad 742, is an interesting example of how traditional Islamic architectural and decorative styles adapted to China - mostly being dominated by the Chinese forms. Huajue Xiang. West of the Drum Tower in the city centre's old Muslim quarter. Tel: (029) 721 9807. Open: daily 8am-6pm. Admission charge.
Huaqing Hot Springs (Huaqing Chi)
This superb thermal springs complex lies not far from the terracotta army site, some 30km east of Xi'an. The pools, bath-houses and garden pavilions are being restored to their Tang-dynasty glory, when this was a favoured resort of emperors.
The famous Xi'an incident' occurred here in 1936. At this historic event, the nationalist leader, Chiang Kaishek, was held a prisoner by his generals until he agreed to form an alliance with the Communists against the invading Japanese. Lintong County. South of the Qin Army Vaults. Open: daily 7am-5.30pm. Admission charge.
Qin Terracotta Army Museum (Qin Bingmayong Bowuguan)
Many visitors will consider this the most fascinating sight in China. As recently as 1974, there was nothing here. That year some peasants digging a well chanced upon an awesome scene. They broke through an underground vault where they discovered 6,000 life-size figures of terracotta soldiers and horses in battle array, each face different - an eternal imperial guard for the founder of the Qin dynasty, the Emperor Qin Shihuangdi, whose tomb is nearby.
Two more vaults filled with terracotta warriors have since been uncovered and opened to the public, one of them a 'command post' for the buried legions. Archaeologists believe other such pits await discovery. Two teams of bronze chariots with horses and charioteer have also been discovered, and are displayed in a separate building.
The scene inside the vaults is charged with mystery, as visitors come face to face with the silent army. Unfortunately, they also come face to face with a far from silent army of fellow visitors, a shuffling queue that gives you little chance to stop and admire the sight (photography is also forbidden). However, there is not much the Chinese can do about the number of tourists eager to see the buried army, and they do their best to accommodate them. Lintong County. Located 40km northeast of Xi'an. Open: daily 8am-6pm. Admission charge.
Shaanxi Historical Museum (Shaanxi Lishi Bowuguan)
This superb new building is big enough - as it has to be - to do justice to the vast archaeological zone that much of Shaanxi seems to be, particularly the area around Xi'an (ancient Chang'an). A vast range of objects from all periods is on display, and even the famous terracotta warriors are no more than an element in a long and fascinating story. Xiaozhai Rd. Near the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Tel: (029) 520 4728. Open: daily 8amˇŞ6pm in summer, 8.30am-5.30pm in winter. Admission charge.
Small Wild Goose Pagoda (Xiao Yan Ta)
As its name implies, this is a smaller cousin to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, having lost its top two storeys to an earthquake in the 16th century. Still 43m high, it is a graceful structure dating from the early 7th century, which may be climbed for its view. Youyi Xi Rd. South of Nanmen Gate. Tel: (029) 525 3455. Open: daily 8.30am-5pm. Admission charge.
Tomb of Qin Shihuangdi (Qin Shihuangdi Ling)
The Emperor Qin Shihuangdi, who ruled from 221 BC until his death in 209 BC, succeeded in uniting China, bringing the Warring States period to an end. Yet it is for his mausoleum and the nearby buried army of terracotta warriors that he is best known. The mausoleum's inner sanctuary is 2.5km in circumference, and the outer boundary stretches for 6km. Archaeologists have postponed its complete excavation and opening to the public, but it is possible to climb the 40-m high tumulus and ponder the life and times of the megalomaniac ruler buried beneath.